Thursday, May 13, 2010

May 13

At Angsana Resort, they have Bodu Beru - a traditional drumming, singing, dance exhibit - weekly. Posing with them between songs.



Here is my student Arey performing. Arey is the one closest to the camera.



BODU BERU
It was nice to see something traditional other than what you find in the souvenir stores. :-)

SLEEP

Lacking. Can’t sleep in this new bed I’ve had since Saturday. I’m having nightmares for some reason too.

ROOMMATES

Nice people. Interesting lives! Americans but one grew up in Peru and they both lived there in the Amazon jungle for 15 years and now live in one of the emirates in UAE for the past 5 years. They have two young adult sons. The lady Bobbi recently got her Master’s in English studies and is talkative, respectful, and curious about comparing cultures like I am. The man Kevin isn’t afraid to pick up lizards and take them back outside. Oh, he is also a pilot and flight instructor and airplane mechanic. I like them!

They are teaching 2 hours a night in a special class formed for them. I hope to observe some Thursday night since I am off then. These other nights I am just too ragged and exhausted as I make it back to town drenched in sweat.

I hear there is another roommate moving in with me the first of June. She will stay 2 months. She has lived here before and is contemplating a complete move back with her family depending on how these two months go.

BODY

Something daily as usual. Had crick in my neck for days. Heels hurt on and off. Hips and knees too. And spurts of headaches the last two days. The rocking I had felt when I came here seemed to go away finally about 2 or 3 weeks ago, but it is back now this week with big waves and major boat rocking. Kind of feel sick recently, but I think I am just tired and not eating well enough.

NATURE

The other day I saw a dirt dauber (mud dauber?) and it had me thinking more about the nature around me. A dirt dauber's nature is the same everywhere in the world...as is my nature. They act here just as they did in Oklahoma on my dad’s farm. The butterflies look and flutter about like the ones we had in Virginia. People on the boats make smiling, funny faces with babies in the seats in front of them just like many do in lines in the U.S. My students write about their goals of making more money so they can build a home or start their own business. I am even acting the way I have always acted wherever I am traveling – looking for comfort and just being “Vickie” in my common ways. All parts of the world are truly the same – in nature and in people. But, culture and what our societies tell us is all that is making us different when it comes to values, beliefs, products, and ways of doing things. I can’t understand why people are always fighting. At the basic, instinct level, we are all wanting generally the same things and we are the same in our hearts. I saw a preview of a new movie “Babies” - or some title like that, and it is about the first year of life of 4 newborns in 4 parts of the world. From the preview, I think that people can see that, again, we are all just the same until we are socialized and made to think that their way of doing things is the right way.

WORK

I have been so busy trying to mark journals and return those that I haven’t had any free time. Sadly, all students didn’t turn them in on time, so that will drag out for some time… I haven’t been able to prepare like I want for classes due to that. So, this weekend I will try to catch up. Last weekend was spent getting lesson plans to Piper. I am still put off by having to do that when the book is set up with its own lesson plans. She tried to make me feel better by assuring me it was useful for her and future people to see. But…too much time is going to an unpaid position! I need some more free time that isn’t spent commuting.

I was surprised to hear today that David and Piper are no longer the directors. So, I now report to Bobby I think. I haven’t heard from Piper this week, but I thought it was her just giving us both some space since I have felt tension over the lesson plans and due to their sudden announcement that I had roommates moving in with less than 24 hours notice. But, maybe the distance is because she isn’t the director so she doesn’t have to deal with me. I don’t know, but it’s okay. Strange no one told me this happened several days ago… Oh, the reason presented to me – they need more teachers and Piper and David can teach and Bobby can direct this business while doing his tour business as well, so it just made logistical sense.

I wish though I could be involved with the testing at the newest resort. I would like to get my feet wet with testing again since I haven’t done it in years really…well, at GEOS we did it, but I think this may be more involved? I am not sure. But I felt some people were misplaced in the classes I have, so I want to see how they are assessing them.

TOEIC BOOK

Yosuke has started a major push on one of two books he will get out this year. So, I need to get on the ball and help edit some and try my hand at writing….Just so distracted with my little classes. I need to focus on what is important in the long run though.

However, I am thinking about writing and/or presenting something at the TESOL convention next March and with Lisya’s encouragement, I have been considering the topic of “Navigating the Cultural and Teaching Complexities in Japan and Maldives”. So, thinking about that too.

OVERALL

Love time with the students. Wish there were more to my life here...you just need money to do what I want to do - ride nice boats, get massages, eat well, etc. That is not the life of a native or local by any means. And they don't have entertainment in a cool environment! I asked about the movie theater and they said it is hot and the movies won't have English. They are just one screen theater from 20 years ago playing Maldivian movies which are in the style of Indian movies I heard. It's okay. I am very, very happy to be in the air-conditioning! I am not that sad about my life that I am willing to go out and be beaten up by the elements more! (See the boat ride blog if you want to hear about more encounters with nature.)

Boat Rides


Let me tell you about my harrowing experience tonight - May 12, 2010.

Background: Let me explain that rainy season is almost here, so the ocean is getting rougher each day it seems. Yesterday (not the experience I am going to tell you about…but stand by for that), the ferry ride to Male was even questionable. As we did that 25 minute slow ride, it sounded like something kept hitting the boat. During this time, I was contemplating how far I would need to swim to some shore or how to kick out the plastic windows if we overturned and had decided I wouldn’t be able to save anyone but myself with the distance I would have to swim. Yes, maybe I was over-reacting some, but the banging was unusual and the seasonal waves were really washing us around. Eventually, I ignored it since no one seemed to mind much. Then about 5 minutes from Male, we stopped in the middle of the water, far from things! It was unsettling at first since it was just out of the ordinary – everyone was quiet, the shipmate did something to the propellers I think. Anyways, after about 3 minutes, we were back in business.

About the other two boat rides to the resorts Tuesday and Wednesday were really rough! Tuesday we had this long open boat with benches along the side and it is not enclosed. (see random photo I had above – not the FedEx boat) The waves spray right up on anyone on the front half of the boat, but since there are about 24 on the boat, everyone can’t cower in the standing room back area. Anyways, that ride was wet for some and rough as we bounced along. All I thought was, “People pay Six Flags and other parks for wet log rides; I get it for free. Enjoy!” So, I tried to think of it like that – bouncing and being sprayed.

The ride on the speedboat today was really rough!! I thought then, “This ride is not for people with back problems.” - As the signs at amusement parks warn. It just bounced and jarred us terribly! About twice, it seemed to knock us unconscious for a second - that feeling of “pow!” and then your brain is jarred and everyone looks at each other with wide eyes, like “Wow, that was hard.” I just tried to stay off the wall since it seemed we were hydroplaning and then we would hit the surface every ten seconds or so and you didn’t know how hard you would bounce. My tail bone has felt it the last two days!

Now, to my boat ride home from the resort to Male tonight– we had a very old-fashioned styled boat with the curvy nose that might have something like a dragon painted on it, if they did such things here which they don’t, and the curls of tails on the back end which are the wooden paddle/guide (sorry I don’t know the names of things on boats). And luckily, the front is glassed in although it only protects the first 2 people in the front seats…except for what comes in around the door edges as waves hit it. I haven’t ridden in this style of boat before, but it is what came for about 30 of us staff members. It is the slowest of the slow ones. It takes 1 hour and 15 minutes on it compared to the speed boat which takes 25 minutes. We have some that fall in the mid-range of those. The captain was doing yoga like poses as we boarded since he would use his foot to move the paddle behind while he did things with his hands to work the engine. Then we were off. And again, we bounced a lot and spray came in all around, and the floors in the back were getting wet as it drug in the rear just above the surface. And, the big difference was the tilt! We rocked especially to the left like 45 degrees so many times I thought we would roll over! When you looked out the back behind the captain, the horizon was left, right, out of sight, in sight, tilted this way and that! Then the engine began sputtering about 55 minutes into the ride (20 from shore) and that is when I finally turned off my music and came out of my little world I was retreating to where I just thought of riding horses - “go with the rhythm of the ride and don’t fight it or you will just make your back hurt more” or with thinking of how I was flowing on a dance floor or cruise ship – just trying to escape and stay calm. But, when the other staff began chattering after one big tilt that brought the 2 brave ones from the roof racing down the ladder, I paid attention. And we couldn’t see out the front well and suddenly the guy next to me shouted and they cut the engines on purpose that time since a boat crossed right in front of us! We had several big rocks to the left and engine weak sputtering which were really scary. I had my eye on the coast guard ship in the distance, but knew we were too far from them for help if needed. And I had seen the lifejackets overhead when it was daylight and was hoping the shipmate would come by me so I could ask for one, but he never came and I was scared to stand up and not sure how to get them down. And, the canvas they had lowered over the windows on my side couldn’t keep the spray out any more and my side was sitting on the edge of our seats and leaning forward each time we saw a big wave coming. But, we made it to shore obviously! Though my hair and back were wet from the trip and it made the 3rd day in a row I had to come home to wash the ocean water out of my hair after work!

From there, I walked to the ferry with my student Arey who visits his family once a week just past my jetty. I was just excited from the fright, but he said he wasn’t scared. However, he is 20 years old and probably not afraid of much! I know I am supposed to ride the staff boats, but I will ask for boats going with the guests from now on if the water looks rough. The guests get the speed boats - and life jackets are mandatory for them!! (We staff are dispensable?!) I noticed one guest boat leaving at the same time we did. I think it went to the airport but even though that would cost me triple the ferry charge to be dropped at the airport, it will be worth it. I will inquire about that next time!

So, I don’t know if I could convey the fear I have had on several occasions the last two days, but it has been “exciting”?? Scary for sure in my opinion.


Thursday, May 6, 2010

May 6

One of the workers enjoying a ride on the wedding chair after the couple went to the sand bar for dinner.







This is after the wedding ceremony and they planted the coconut tree to represent their future growing love.
This is before they were finished decorating. It is not a Maldivian custom. Just for a fun ceremony.

This is how big their papayas are! I have never seen them so large.

OH! I wish I had time and energy to write daily! There are so many things I notice and I want to share, but by the time I write, I have forgotten them. Even trying to get a pen and paper from my purse is too troublesome since my bag is crammed full so I am reluctant to unzip it during my commute or it takes energy to get it closed again! (It is stuffed with materials for class…yes, a backpack would have been smart to bring. Buying things like that here are too expensive since they are imported and not worth it over this short stay.)

MALDIVIAN PEOPLE

I will start with the most recent. Today I had a Maldvian couple and baby come to my home to visit. They know the people I work with and were very close to Jean. They know I love the traditional Maldivian breakfast called “masuni”? (like tuna salad but contains coconut), so they brought me some and I shared the last of my Japanese sakura cake with them. They visited for more than 2 hours and I look forward to their next visit.

INDIA

I learned so much about southern India since the wife had studied there for 3 years. It is interesting that I find Maldives such a challenge to live in, and they find India to be terribly difficult! And, I have to say, the life here is much, much better than India! They would often lose electricity (here I have only been without once for 15 minutes). They would lose water for 2 days at a time often but once for 7 days! (I don’t have hot water here but it hasn’t been a big burden not to have it.) The shops there all closed at 8 p.m. and the streets become dark so you can’t go out for things then and the taxis will charge at least double to drive you at night (I can go to markets and restaurants til 11 p.m. and the street lights are never all out at once and the taxis around here seem to have only one price though I haven’t checked that thoroughly. Oh, the heat is a bit more bearable at night without the sunlight and I don’t get home from work til after 8 so the shops open are a good thing). In India, well-to-do men with cars and dressed nicely would get out and urinate on the street and no one paid any mind to it (here I only saw some men in the bushes along my way to the ferry and I wasn’t sure if they were using the restroom or getting up from a nap). And the worst was the smell in India from cow, goat, and elephant dung everywhere. (Here there only cats and the stench from the dumpsters on one end of town…and the visual trash eye-sore.) So, I have it better!

Oh my gosh, I think we should be pushing for more human rights in India too. The women in some areas are so mistreated!! The story they told me was about a real life situation 19 years ago that was made into a movie is awful. I don’t know how wide spread this is, so I can only talk about this one area. In this area, baby girls are typically killed at birth since they are a burden to the families (think of dowries when they are married off and such). This one area killed off almost all girls, so the men had to go to other towns to look for wives. One family had lost their mother and there was left the father and his 5 sons the youngest who was around 18 years old. The father went in search for a wife for them and he found this one 14 year old girl (around that age) and they made her marry all five sons! I could go on, but you can imagine the terrible things she had to endure. I don’t want to repeat it. But things like that are allowed!! Well, there may be laws against it, but they are not enforced.

And if a woman is told to marry someone and then if they are even at the alter with all guests present, if the dowry is not satisfactory, the wedding can be called off and the woman’s reputation is (somehow??) tainted so she is unlikely to be asked for marriage again!

MY ISLAND - HULHUMALE

They pointed out to me that the population on my island is about 50% Bangladesh workers doing the building and working in the cafes. They said I have to learn the difference between the two because they do not represent the Maldivian people or standards.

MUSLIM PRAYERS

And, I learned more about the prayer customs 5 times a day. They are reciting passages from the Koran silently as they do the standing and kneeling and head to the floor routine. The first of the day is a repetition of 4 times and the other times of the day are 3/4/4/2 I think…I have already forgotten! It only takes like 5 minutes to do it. And the call over the loud speakers is in Arabic. It is like a chant saying “come and pray” and some more I think. I think he said all Muslims here can read and write Arabic although they might not be able to communicate with it. And, there is a portion of the mosque for women, though I have never seen a woman go in. They say usually the women do it at home while the men do it at the mosque. And, if they are not able to do the prayers at any point in the day, they can make them up at home later. And you are excused from doing it if you are on a boat or some other things like that (though one of the crew members does it every night at sunset like I think I mentioned long ago so I have had the great opportunity to see the ritual performed close up). And on TV, they put like a 5 second notice up on the screen to let people know when it is prayer time. And on Fridays (their holy day), the stores are allowed to reopen after 2.5 hours for the special long “services?” / “prayers?” (I forgot to ask why it is so long then) since making money and work is also important.

FAMILY

When naming a child, it must be a name approved by the government! It has to meet Islamic acceptance! So, they couldn’t officially name a baby “Vickie”! It could have that nickname though. And the naming always occurs 7 days after birth. And traditionally, they slaughter an animal for that ceremony. But the couple that came here thought it was pointless to do it here, so they had a family member living in India slaughter a goat and then give the meat to the poor! Isn’t that a great thing?! So, they could meet the tradition, but help the hungry.

Breast feeding is the norm and encouraged for a baby’s health. If the mother cannot give milk, someone else in the family will. For example, the lady’s cousin just gave birth but can’t give milk yet, so she went in for several days to feed that lady’s child!! I think she said that that new mother’s mom had fed her when she was a baby too, so it was her turn to return the favor. And breast feeding can be done for years for a child since they won’t force the child to quit.

Having a baby outside of wedlock is such a sin here in Maldives that a woman will be lashed at the courthouse (for public humiliation) like 100 times (I think that was the number) on the back (after she has the baby), and then put in jail with other criminals for 3 months while the baby is put in a special home til she is released! In the old days, she would be under house arrest for 1 year. Wow…is human nature so terrible that we should torture people for following natural desires that doesn’t hurt another?

Did you know that more than one wife is allowed here?! A Bangladesh janitor I see weekly at the classroom asked about my family so I was showing him 3 pictures of them on my computer. When he saw my brother’s family, he said “1 wife?” and I said “yes” just thinking he was trying to make conversation with almost zero English abilities that he has. Then this week, a student said something about his wives and I thought it was a joke but my Japanese student told me about the multiple wife situations here! So, I went and talked to that student more. He was joking and only has one wife, but he said it is legal to have as many as you can financially support. I wonder if it happens often. I will have to ask my new friends here. I wonder because I heard that the apartments that have these 2 or 3 bedrooms are actually used by several families, not just one! I imagined 2 or 3 couples with their kids, but now I wonder if it is just one husband with several wives and their children??

WORK WEEK

I cannot get used to saying “Sunday” in my Sunday class! I keep saying “Monday” and they keep correcting me. I asked them if they knew why I did that. No one could guess! They understood after I explained that our work weeks in America and Japan are Monday through Friday not Sunday through Thursday.

WORK

I feel too busy. I give tests weekly at Reach’s request to prove student’s progress, and grading and advising the individual students is too time consuming… I prefer individual attention to their specific problems, so I wonder if I am cut out for this group lesson gig. So, I will cut out testing and stick to the massive amount of homework I assign and check…that will still overwhelm me! And, to top it off, they are asking me to submit lesson plans. I had stopped creating them since it was easier to just put post-it notes on each page of the books to remind me what to say or do since we have to cover like 10-25 pages in less than 2 hours each week. So…I will be doing that most of the weekend…but have to work on job things too. An application for LA is due this month and I haven’t even had time to start it. (okay, I could forego the blog right?! But these are things I don’t want to forget…)

I also need to get to work on Yosuke’s next TOEIC book. He is hoping I will work on some writing for him, but I haven’t even started that…and next weekend I worry I won’t have all the homework checked so my time will go to that…I am too dedicated to each student….but they need it! I want to give extra work since some of them are overachievers too, but it takes time to go find exercises for them to do. (one finished the whole book already and asked for more to do!) and I need to create bonus work for others who are failing terribly…such a range of abilities in one class.

Jean left Thursday morning back to South Africa. He loved it immensely here and hopes to return some day. He made lots of friends, learned some of the language, and just took this in completely. I think it was his second living abroad situation. Before he lived in England while in school.

At Banyan Tree Resort, a couple was doing their wedding vows! I put a picture of that above too. Some of the things related were that they carried in on a chair, they had their names in flowers and candles, they planted a coconut tree since their love will grow like the tree will, then they jetted off to a sand bar for a private dinner at sunset with her in her wedding dress! We were in class at the time, but our window looked right out at the coconut tree area. So, I couldn’t get pictures at the time it was happening.

LIFE

I was invited out tonight by the British girl again, but said no since I can’t see me having any time to do all I need to…and I worry that I am about to lose Internet access on Fridays and Saturdays since they are thinking to rent out the classroom to a photography studio on the weekends! So…I don’t know how I will do my searches and get grades done and do my personal things in just the few hours each weekday I can go to the office (and find the Internet working). I know I could have purchased Internet at home, but they said it could take a month to get it and now it is just not worth the hassle of securing it. So, I’m not too happy right now.

HEALTH

Daily there is something else wrong with me. Amazing! Yesterday my elbow felt strained from carrying my heavy bag in my hands (since my shoulders are hurting from always carrying it that way). Earlier in the week it was my knee that felt like it might pop out of place. There were bumps on my eyelid. There was more pain in my heels and shin. And the ant bites may be subsiding but they still are completely red and look awful and itch still some. And there was more but I forgot now.

FOOD

I am not going hungry anymore though it would be a little good for me! Tonight I had homemade pizza at Piper’s home. Very good. And…I am learning some things that I like though they are not necessarily healthy but they are easy. I did buy a papaya and as you can see in the picture, they are huge here. They are much bigger than the pineapples that I don’t want to buy anymore since they are so skinny. Oh, and I saw miniature pineapples too…not sure the point of those since there isn’t much there after you cut all the eyes and core out. Though I am sweating like crazy during the day and walking for about 1.5 hours at the minimum, I don’t think I am losing weight anymore.

WEATHER

It was a little cooler Wednesday night as I came home. I could see rain in the distance so I guess that cooled it off, but it still must have been 88 or more and who know the heat index. But, it was a little bit of a relief for my walk home. Luckily for me, I haven’t had to walk in the rain yet. I hear it can come up to your ankles when it is heavy since it can’t drain off the streets easily. And they say because of global warming, they don’t know when the rains will come yet since nowadays there are just patches here and there instead of all over at once. And last year, it didn’t rain in rainy season but did later and the tourists were not too happy since they pay different prices for different seasons.

OVERALL

I was looking around the other day and thought there was so much that would make an incredible “foreign film” since there are many sights and sounds that are unfamiliar to Americans. And I have met some passionate people here that could talk about different things like the coral reefs, feelings about other cultures, or the concern over the attitude towards education here and the loss of their language . Many people here seem to be great story tellers. I can’t understand sometimes since they may be speaking in Dhivehi, but they captivate the listeners and I wish I knew what they said. That is different from Japan where people didn’t seem to tell stories if they were sitting around – only small, polite talk.

Those are some differences – in Japan, people were seen reading books on trains and everywhere; they didn’t talk much to other people; and with English, they are educated I think but not comfortable producing verbal language. Here, I never see a native with a book (once I saw a foreign woman with a book and maybe 3 times saw students reading worksheets – not much since I see many people on ferries daily); people talk easily and some of my students are SO creative in making up stories; and they don’t seem to be as educated about English grammar, but you can’t get them to be quit talking long enough so you can point out their mistakes. Knowledge and Usage issues….

And, I am learning a lot about myself. Challenges are super hard, but you can learn a lot quickly about who you are when you throw yourself into other environments with new personalities and activities. I have lots of self-improvement to do I can see! I think I am about through learning from this experience…though, even returning to America will be another challenge since I have been gone so long! Just talking to the Americans here I can see that I am really out of it culturally, technically, and in interpersonal interactions. Or, maybe a lot of that is the age difference…I felt disconnected from the 20 something year old ALTs in Japan too. And many of the foreigners here are young too…I think most are 30 or younger.